|
|
|
|
|
I used the Woodrat to do the main cutting of the tenons. First using the "block" method: Position the cutter so it'll cut the back side of the tenon, then make a block of wood the same width as the cutter diameter (12mm) plus the width of the mortise (9mm) to go between a rod (held where the fence rod would usually go on the router) and the stop. Cut the back of the tenon. |
|
Then whip out the block, bring the router forward so the rod is against the stop and cut the front side of the tenon. Perfect fit, apart from a shaving or two of adjustment - as intended of course. A lot of rod-like bits and pieces in the pic there, but I hope you can make out the gist. |
|
I could have done a similar set-up for the crosscuts to make the stub tenon complete, but I just marked a pencil line... |
|
... and split it with the 'Rat by eye. And yes, you can split a pencile line with a router, 'cos that's what I was doing. :~P |
|
The #140 earned its keep, as intended, easing the thickness for a nice sliding fit. |
|
I decided to round the tenons rather than square the mortises, taking off the bulk with a couple of vertical paring cuts with a chisel... |
|
... and then filed to finished shape. |
|
The ends of the tenons are mitred so the ends will be just shy of each other in the joint. The moment of truth... |
|
Perfick. Makes up for all the dozens of joints I've cut in my wood butchering career that haven't fitted correctly. |
|
A dry run just to see how things are coming. The legs are still to be tapered, but it's looking as expected - which is nice... |
Next page Previous page Projects Menu
|
