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While we have the beading cutter and two skates in we may as well cover a couple of common occasions when the movable skate is deliberately set to encroach on the cutter. Not applicable to the 50/050s though. One is when you want to place a bead on the edge of a board rather than in the centre; a side bead. Again parallel is just as vital, but the skate is lined up so the beading cutter forms the profile on the edge without cutting the outside quirk. Takes care to get it right or you can end up with an abomination like this. |
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The second is for rebating. It's common practice to use a wider cutter than the required width to form a rebate so there's very little point in having the moving skate's support on the far edge of the cutter if it's hanging out in mid air and not on the wood. Instead move it in like this. |
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Nickers
Or spur cutters in polite society. Yes, cross grain work. I'm not going to mess about here - I've had mixed results. Don't even think about beading cross grain is my advice. On the other hand I've had good results cutting housings (dados) and rebates. The spur cutters themselves are virtually everyone's bête noir, mainly because they're all so badly designed. Only the variety found on the likes of the 46 and older 55s is adjustable for depth. All the others as far as I know require you to file them down to usable length â and subsequently reduce the usable depth available to sharpen. D'oh. |
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You may be clamouring for new and instructive ways to sharpen said nickers. Sorry, you're out of luck here, but you could try here if you really can't bear to cope without a jig. I just hold the ghastly thing between finger and thumb and run it over the oil stone. Works for me.
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Despite the excitement of going across the grain, the basics of set up still apply with the skates lining up with the cutter sides that much more important. Small adjustments to get the spurs in line can be made with the aid of paper shims or in some cases judicious bending with pliers in the vice... Exercise caution and judgement. |
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In many cases folks have just taken the sensible route, decided it's not worth the grief and just use a gauge or knife to pre-score the fibres, following up periodically throughout the planing operation as the depth increases. It's a lot quicker than it may sound.
If you do get them working, and if you do it's actually pretty efficient, then the only deviation from standard technique is to drag the plane backwards a couple of times before you start in order to pre-score the wood. |
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That's it. Everything else is just the same as ploughing that first, basic groove. |
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Except for running against a batten instead of the fence of course... |
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